ZJ: 15x10" rims?

[whodat]

Well, I posted this on JU, but that seems to have turned into a 'how cool does this look?' discussion group, so here goes:
I'm in the planning stages of my next upgrade (4.56 and 32/33") and am leaning towards a 15x10" rim. Anyone else using this? By my figgerin':
Alright here goes:
Terms used:
BSr=distance from mounting surface of rim to back of rim
FSr=Distance from mounting surface of rim to front of rim
BSt=Distance from mounting surface of rim to back of tire
FSt=Distance from mounting surface of rim to front of tire
ROH (rim overhang)=distance from tire bead to tire max width
Airspeed velocity of a swallow=What kind of swallow? Find out at www.ask.com

15"x7" Rim with 5.5" BS (stock measurements) with 10.5" tire:
BSr=5.5"
FSr=1.5"
BSt=7.25"
FSt=3.25"
ROH=1.75"

15"x8" Rim with 3.75" BS (typical aftermarket rim) with 11.5" tire:
BSr=3.75"
FSr=4.25"
BSt=5.5"
FSt=6"
ROH=1.75"

15"x10" Rim with 4.75" BS with 12.5" tire
BSr=4.75"
FSr=5.25"
BSt=6.5"
FSt=6"
ROH=1.25"
So (theoretically) a 15x10"/4.75"BS rim with 33x12.5" tires (MT/Rs for the sake of argument) would tuck as well as 32x11.5" tires on 15x8/3.75"BS on the outside, while having 3/4" more clearance on the inside than 31x10.5s on stock rims, right? And as an added bonus (plus the real reason for going with wider rims) the more vertical sidewall profile of the combo would give better handling on the street, and a flatter tread profile would lead to longer tire life, right?


whodat

Repost from archive:

KevinF:
Whodat!
Great to hear from you. I was just discussing how many of the older JU members are posting less and less. I miss hearing all of your great lo-buck ideas!!!!

Anyway, I'm running 33x12.5x15 mud terrains on my 3.75" backspaced AREs on 15x8 wheels. They rub on the pinch seam that is just aft of the front tire (footwell area) under 50~75% of a full lock turn, even with 5.5" of lift in the front. With 10" wheels, you're going to make it even worse!

I'd really recommend against it, personally. The 8"rs give you MORE than enough width, hold the tire on the wheel better under low pressures, and will actually FIT in your wheel wells.

I read on the other post that someone mentioned Woola's running this setup. Sure he is, but he trimmed the $h!t out of his fenders and hammered in all the seams. If you're looking for a "mod easily undone", adding 10" wheels is NOT the one!!!!

Best Wishes,
KevinF

[whodat]

Kevin: What kind of CAs are you running? The more lift you have (with stock CAs) the closer to the back your front tires get, meaning that with more lift you could be rubbing more than me. I beat that pinch weld down long ago after it left a beautiful custom sipe down the middle of one of my scorpions. I have recently paid off the beast and am about to click over 90k miles, so trade-in is no longer an issue for me, and I'm not afraid to trim a bit. I am not so worried about losing a bead as I am about having a good handling good wearing tire on the street for the 99% of the time that this daily driver is on the road.
Now for the low buck issue:
I was thinking of regearing to regain lost power due to larger tires. I picked up a set of 4.56s for the rear for $75 with open carrier. I can pick up (hopefully) an EZ locker for open carrier for $125 as soon as tax money gets here. Add a new set of front 4.56s and install kits from randy's and the regear is done, with a locker on the cheap. was wavering between 4.11 and 4.56, but the cheap gearset clinched it. Now, with 4.56s and my 31s, I'll be running pretty high on the road. And, if I'm gonna go bigger, why just go one size? And finally, if I replace a set of street tires AND a set of mud tires, why not just get a mud tire with a good street reputation and a treadwear warranty? Long, roundabout way of going low-buck for the big tires.
whodat

[KevinF]

Whodat:
I'm just running stock length LCAs. You are correct about the angularity, and that will be corrected in one of my future projects: fabbing my own adjustable LCAs. I already know how I'm going to do it, and I'll post pix as soon as I'm done.

I like your reasoning to get the MT/Rs...LOL! Nice buy on the R+P! I'm going to stick with 4.11 gearing I think. That way, I'm still in the "nearly stock" range if I ever want to go back to "semi-stock" status if I buy a rockcrawler in the next few months/year.

Again, I'm glad you've chosen to join the clan over here. Looking forward to hearing all about your brainstorming in the near future!

KevinF

[Agent00ZJ]

I would go 8" at the most if you offroad. Larger than that and you increase chance of sidewall damage or losing your bead if running low PSI...