swapping axles - Ford 8.8

[TJ-eff]

Hey,

I'm looking at getting ride of the 35 on my TJ. I'm looking for some thoughts from some of you who have done an axle transplant.

Here's what I'm thinking

If I can get a Ford 8.8 from a Explorer that has disc brakes and limited slip rear them I also don't have to worry about the bolt pattern. (and i will have the benefit of the limited slip until I can save enough dough for a selectable lockler).

I would like to get into a set of 35 or 36"swamper.
How's the strength of this axle? I no very little about them. I do know that they also have a C clip, that's what I am a little worried about!

Your thoughts would be a great help.

[RMeak]

I know that this has been a popular swap, but I still have my reservations. JP magazine did a story about swaps and the wrote a little side note about being careful on which 8.8 you get and knowing the difference, some are not any stronger the the Dana 35. I honestly would look for a Dana 44 out of a late model TJ, it is alreadly set up for your rig. I came across one not too long ago that someone pulled out of their new TJ in place of a Ford 9" and they were selling it for about 1500 bones. I am sure that you could find a 8.8 for less and probally spend a few more $$$ buying the LCA brackets., shock mounts and spring mounts, then have someone weld them on if you can't do that and still come in under 1500 bucks...then find out you got the 8.8 with the weak axle tubes. But that is just my opinion.

[Chris S]

The 8.8 is a strong axle even with the C clip. A C clip is only a problem if your shafts break, and the 8.8 shafts are unlikely to break.

I think it was the 8.8 from V8 explorers with disk brakes that were the ones to get. Some others as well, like after a certain year, but can't remember which.
I remember that the early Ranger 8.8s are among the ones to avoid.

[james]

Hey,

I say go for it!!! You will need a '95 or newer 8.8" off of an Explorer or maybe a Mountaineer. I think they sell those in Canada!!! These will have the disk brakes and most have the LS!! As far as mounts go I know RE sells them, rubiconexpress.com. You can check out the pads and towers.
If you are curious what somebody else thinks about the 8.8 swap go to shortwheelbase.com , go to the search button and try axleswap8.8 or something like that!!
If I find anything of interest I'll let you know!!!!

[RMeak]

Just found the article in the November 2001 issue on page 30. Just a few thoughts before you hit the wrecking yard...good luck

[TJ-eff]

Thanks guys,

I would like to keep the swap under 800 if I could,

I don't think I could find a D44 f of a TJ for that price otherwise I would be going that route!

I'm hoping to stumble accross a 8.8 for 200-400 (I don't know if that's realistic or not) I have not priced them out yet.

The other question I have is, do I need a new master cylinder when I go with all disc or can I get away with an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear?

RMeak thanks for the info in JP - I have that issue, I must have skipped right past it - so i'll be diggin that out today!

[Warlock]

Well, around here, 8.8's are running about $500.

[satan]

Something that's not mentioned in the text of any of the preceeding posts is the pinion-yoke's positioning on the 8.8.

I've done a few 8.8 swaps into XJs - they all fit quite well and are way beefy -- some of the issues that I'd be thinking about for the SWB installation of an 8.8 would be that the diffierential is NOT centered on the axle -- it's a bit more than 2" off-set towards the Passenger's side - this could compound the already complex rear-driveshaft angles.

Add to that off-set the length of the pinion (if you use the OEM Ford pinion plate and bolt an adapter to it - that value only gets longer) , and the relatively lower placement of the pinion on the diff (as compared to the D35) - - you will be working with much tighter angles, and the off-set is something that you won't be able to "adjust out" (well at least not if you like your frame to point in the direction that you're traveling) -- so you'll have a slightly shorter shaft with an additional 2" of 'off-set' that's 90* out of phase with anything you could change with control arms adjustment to make up for.

I believe that article posted talks about the housing tube diameter -- beefy stuff, as is the 8.8 case itself - about the only uniform comment I've heard on the XJs I've done is that the diff will drag MUCH more than before (considering that 1/2 the tube diameter show-up below the rotational wheel centers and the larger carrier case is a little bottom heavy... it's expected - just so you're ready for it.)

You ask about the Master Cylinder...
... I 've ead posts about going to a ZJ M/C, but haven't tried it -
Very good results with just a proportioning valve - allows you to kill the "lock" tendance of big rear discs ($40 USD http://www.summitracing.com/ look at P/Ns SUM-G3905 or WIL-260-2220)


(Don't forget to look under the rear of any Navajo's you may find in the yards... in addition to the Merc Moutaineer, and the Ford Exploder)

[TJ-eff]

:(
Thanks for the reply Satan, after reading your post I'm starting to have second thoughts about the 8.8 I didn't think there would be that much of #%^%$#^ around to aline everything!

I'll do some more research, but I'm also going to look into other possibly swaps!

[satan]

It's far from a royal pain, and is actually a really nice strength upgrade, but the sideways off-set of the yoke may be a vibration issue on the TJ's short driveshaft...
... something that isn't mentioned too often in some of the coverage.

[Snotty]

Any swap will have it's quirks. It's just how much you want to deal with in the end. As for the D44 out of a TJ, the TJ D44 axle tubes are thin and said to be as strong/weak as the D35. Bending those tubes is why I now have different axles under my TJ.