Question On Lift Kits for CJ5/7

[JhnBrackett]

Looking at an early CJ7-86 model. Got some questions on the lift kits I should do. Can anyone tell me what problems might arrise from each of these installs. & also any extra parts I would need.
Body Lift Kit. 1" or 3" lift. The 1" is polyurethane & the 3" lift is compounded plastic.
Spring Over Axle Lift Kit. Adds approximately 4.5"
Reverse Shackle Lift. Anything from 1"-2.25". I have heard these bring the tires in a bit towards the center & might provide to much "bad" flex, as in might bend

Also for any lift over 2" i've read that I shoudl get a transfer case drop. Are there any more parts I might need other than shocks for any of these.

What year did they first start coming out w/ power steering pumps?

Thank you for any questions answered

[SamFromCO]

Looking at an early CJ7-86 model. Got some questions on the lift kits I should do. Can anyone tell me what problems might arrise from each of these installs. & also any extra parts I would need.
Body Lift Kit. 1" or 3" lift. The 1" is polyurethane & the 3" lift is compounded plastic.
I don't like 3" body lifts for several reasons but 1" isn't too bad. Usually the things that need to be altered are the steering shaft, emergency brake cable, fuel filler hose, and stuff like that.
[B]Spring Over Axle Lift Kit. Adds approximately 4.5".
With this lift you are looking at longer driveshafts, brake lines, new shocks, probably a drop pitman arm. You may have to lower the tranfer case mount and be prepared to address the problem of axle wrap which is common on this type of lift. If done right, though, SOA works really well.
[B]Reverse Shackle Lift. Anything from 1"- 2.25". I have heard these bring the tires in a bit towards the center & might provide to much "bad" flex, as in might bend."
You'll get different opinions on this one. A lot of people like thier shackle reversals. As a lift, though, it only raises the front of the Jeep. Depending on the kit, you might have to get some welding done on the frame and the front driveshaft will probably have to be altered.
[B]Also for any lift over 2" i've read that I shoudl get a transfer case drop. Are there any more parts I might need other than shocks for any of these.
Nah! I got a 4"-5" lift without lowering the t case. Now, I have a couple of questions. What is your reason to raise your Jeep? Is this for off road or street use? What size tires are you planning on running?
[B]What year did they first start coming out w/ power steering pumps?

I dunno. :confused:

[B]Thank you for any questions answered

No problemo!:)

[Yucca-man]

Looking at an early CJ7-86 model.

CJ-7s were produced from 1976-1986, so you are looking at the last model year of the CJ7. You may luck out and have one with the factory Dana44 rear, which is easily ID'd by the 8-sided differential cover. The other, more common, option for that year was the AMC20 rear, which has a round cover.

I prefer no body lift, as it reduces the stress/leverage on body mounts. The engine and driveline are connected to the frame, so the farther you lift the body away, the more interference you will have on the shift levers and the fan shroud up front. Fuel tank filler neck may need modification, etc...

Sam's got good answers regarding the other lift options. Reverse shackle may reduce the wheelbase slightly, but won't bring the wheels toward center (left/right) of the Jeep any. Solid axles don't swing that way...

Don't know what the first year Jeep used power steering pumps, but my 73 CJ5 had factory power steering and power brakes.

[JhnBrackett]

Thanks everyone for the questions answered and please keep them coming.
The most probable use is off road trails/hunting. No real "rock" climbing. So only lookin at 31-33" tires. I've heard 2" will be great for 31 and 4" for 33s. Will only occasionally be used for driving to work, and that's a pretty straight trip.
What are some of the best lifts for the money? That includes extra parts needed (shocks, etc..)
How do reverse shackles only raise the front if you get the front and rear leaf springs w/ shackles?

So far from your comments I'm thinking maybe a 1-2" body lift w/ a 1.5"-2" suspension lift of some other sorts. Is a combo of lifts ok? Please help me w/ my decisions.

Will I need quick disconnect sway bars for when I go off roading?

[ontherocks]

With a 2" body, don't forget the clutch linkage.

[SamFromCO]

A shackle reversal is only done to the front springs. You make the end of the front springs toward the front of the Jeep the fixed end instead of the end towards the rear (stock configuration). You do this by welding or bolting spring mounting brackets to the front of the frame and then cut the current mounting brackets off of the frame. Then you mount the shackles to the frame near where you cut the old mounting brackets off, hence a "shackle reversal'. You don't normally get new springs with a shackle reversal kit. Does that make sense? Not sure if I explained it very well.
I took my swaybar off and threw it away. If you don't want to do that you could get some quick disconnects. It will help off road if you don't have the swaybar hooked up.
As far as which lift kit is better, it seems to me that you usually have to pay more to get a better quality lift. If it was me building a hunting rig I would probably go with a 2-1/2" suspension lift, and 31" tires. If it rubs, add a 1" body lift.

[Getsome]

I had a 1979 CJ7 with a 4" spring lift and 33's. I liked it alot. I did have to drop my transfer case about 1", but that was no big deal. Ujoints were popping so I installed some big 1" nuts between the frame and the skid plate. About 20 minutes of work. I then installed a 3" body lift about a year later and it was a huge PITA!! I could care less about the filler hose and steering shaft but the problem with the clutch linkage drove me nuts!! I had it on for maybe two months and it drove like a fat drunk down the road. It felt real top heavy. I took it off about two months later. Never again.
On my "new" 79 I will be going with 2.5" BDS springs and a shackle reverse kit and 33's.